![]() ![]() Legend says that King Alfonso X had arranged to meet with his Moorish lover Zulima for an assignation, but she was late and the King, angry at this perceived slight, cursed the fountain. The truth is that the town had belonged to the Leonés royal family and was called la ciudad de los Condes, or city of the Counts.Īs you enter the town you will pass la Cuesta de la Mora and its fountain. Once married, the men took the women's fortunes and tied them to trees and beat them. Some books tell us that the town got its name from a story told in El Canter de Mio Cid about two Castilian nobles or Condes, who married the daughters of Don Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, El Cid. The town also used to have at least 12 churches and several pilgrim hospitals. The village also has a bakery, a couple of shops, a restaurant and a bar.įrom Villalcázar de Sirga we will follow the purpose made gravel track that runs parallel to the road for 5 kilometres until we reach Carrión de los Condes.Ĭarrión de los Condes during medieval times was a town of between 10,000 and 12,000 inhabitants, nowadays there are just over 2,000. The second is an alabaster bust of Santiago which is reportable able to get rid of headaches, if you rub a towel across its forehead and then across your own then you will be cured.įor those wishing to stay there is a municipal albergue and some bed and breakfast style hotels and a hostel. The first is a statue of the Virgin Mary which is said to heal pilgrims who haven't been healed in Santiago. There are a couple of miracles attributed to items within the church. Inside the church are the tombs of Don Felipe, a Templar knight and brother of Alfonso X, el Sabio and his wife Doña Leonor. This already huge church is what remains of a much larger building which was damaged in 1755 by an earthquake and Napoleon's troops during the Napoleonic wars. The main monument in Villalcazár de Sirga is la Iglesia de la Virgen Blanca, a large church build between the 12th and 13th centuries by the Knights Templar. In the 13th century the Camino was re-routed through here because King Alfonso X, el Sabio (the Learned) continuously mentioned the miracles performed by the Virgen Blanca (white virgin) in his Cantigas, a large collection of songs from the Middle Ages. It is at this point that the other route converges. You may need to ask permission to go inside as I believe it is now a private house.Īfter the Ermita de la Virgen del Rio turn left near the bridge and walk past the Ermita del Cristo de la Salud, again turn left and continue down the path for about 1 killometre until you reach Villalcázar de Sirga, or as it is more commonly known in these parts, Villasirga. Inside you will find an alabaster image of Santiago Peregrino and a statue of la Virgen del Rio who is said have swum up the Rio Ucieza during a flood and stopped here. At a bridge over the Rio Ucieza take a left then an immediate right to follow the river bank, this you do for about 5 kilometres until you come to the Ermita de la Virgen del Rio. After another kilometre you should reach the village of Villovieco, don't stop here, just skirt past it. Follow this for about 3 kilometres where you will come across a fountain on your right hand side with a wayside cross next to it. The route continues behind the church where you will come to a junction with a minor road ahead. ![]() There are also the remains of a former pilgrim hospital. There isn't much to see here but you may wish to visit the small 13th century Ermita de la Virgen del Socorro and the 17th century church, Iglesia de la Magdelena. There is also an albergue and a casa rural if you wish to spend the night as well as a shop, restaurant and a couple of bars if you need refreshment. The village here is a good place to see some of the adobe style mud buildings endemic to this area as well as the very large Palomares which are used to breed pigeons. If you want to take the old route then turn right here down towards the Paseo del Cementerio and into Población de Campos. At this point you can keep following the purpose made path to Carrión de Los Condes or take the old route. After about 3 kilometres the old route meets the new just after the tiny 13th century Ermita de San Miguel on the left. It passes through the villages of Villarmentero de Campos and Revenga de Campos and skirts Villalcázar de Sirga. This route will take you past the outskirts of Población de Campos, where there is a bar and refugio and to the village of Villovieco. In recent years a specially constructed gravel walkway, or andadero de peregrinos, has been added running parallel to this road all the way to Carrión de Los Condes. Leave Fromista on the road heading towards Carrión de Los Condes. Camino de Santiago - French Way - Stage 16 - Frómista to Carrión de los Condes ![]()
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